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Bloody Good
Aug 12, 2008
By: Donald Link, as told to Francine Maroukian
New Orleans chef Donald Link shares his Bloody Mary secrets
Okra
Aug 12, 2008
By: Allston McCrady
The South's signature vegetable is ready for harvest
Lazy on the Lumber
Aug 12, 2008
By: Mark Anders
Exploring the Amazon of the South by paddle
Lonesome Doves
Aug 12, 2008
By: Ray Sasser
The San Miguel Ranch & Lodge in southern Texas is a hunter's paradise
A Hotel with Heart
Aug 12, 2008
By: Howell Raines
The feline charm of New Orleans' Soniat House
For the Birds
Aug 08, 2008
By: Paige L. Hill
An avian center with a noble mission opens in South Carolina
Books - Southern Drama
Aug 08, 2008
By: Karen Olsson
Finally, a history of Savannah as rich as the city itself
Pass the Pawpaws
Aug 08, 2008
By: Kent Priestley
West Virginia plan breeder Neal Peterson champions a less-known native fruit
The Temptress of Castle Hill
Aug 08, 2008
By: Donna M. Lucey
A lingering Southern femme fatale enlivens an old Virginia manor
A Good Nose
Aug 08, 2008
By: Roger Pinckney
How a Newfie taught me a few things about women
Home Base
Aug 08, 2008
By: David Mezz
Designer Billy Reid's den comfortably mixes the old and the new
Against the Grain
Aug 08, 2008
By: Roy Blount, Jr.
What happened to the halcyon days of corn?
Taking Flight
Jun 19, 2008
By: Elizabeth Dewberry
After Katrina, a New Orleans artist strives to connect art and the environment
Forever Pine
Jun 19, 2008
By: Sandy Lang
A Louisiana company salvages precious wood and gives it new life
On Patrol
Jun 19, 2008
By: Ben McC. Moïse
The String King
Jun 19, 2008
By: Matt Hendrickson
T Bone Burnett on growing up in Fort Worth, playing with Bob Dylan, and why Andy Warhol matters to music
Bug Off
Jun 18, 2008
By: Roy Blount Jr.
You have to be tricky to get even with pesky flies
Guitar God
Jun 13, 2008
By: Donovan Webster
In the hills of southwest Virginia, Wayne Henderson makes music by hand
Horse Sense
Jun 13, 2008
By: Damon Lee Fowler
An Atlanta architect sets a new standard for equestrian centers
Church in the Woods
Jun 13, 2008
By: Roger Pinckney
At the ruins of an old church, a family honors a tradition begun generations before
Compost Happens
Apr 22, 2008
By: Roy Blount Jr.
How to make a dirt pile worth believing in
Willie Nelson's Grass Station
Apr 22, 2008
By: Joe Nick Patoski
The Red-Headed Stranger may turn the idea of biofuel into a reality
Lapdog
Apr 22, 2008
By: Charles Gaines
How I was trained by my Yorkie
The Original Steel Magnolia
Apr 22, 2008
By: Guy Martin
How a South Alabama farm girl lived to be 104
Minton Sparks Catches Fire
Apr 22, 2008
By: Marshall Chapman
The love child of Flannery O'Connor and Hank Williams lights up the stage
The Flower Doctor
Apr 22, 2008
By: Rosa Shand
A South Carolina neurologist cultivates his legacy through a stunning rare Southern plant
Blade Maker
Apr 22, 2008
By: Monte Burke
Jerry Fisk can turn just about any hunk of metal into a very sharp work of art
The Call Master
Feb 21, 2008
By: Bryan Keith Hunter
A North Carolina woodworker crafts one-of-a-kind birdcalls
Garden Retreat
Feb 14, 2008
By: Allston McCrady
A South Carolina designer reinterprets a classic garden structure
Southern Crew
Feb 14, 2008
By: Elizabeth Connor
Rowing in Tennessee’s Secret City Head Race
Blues Train
Jan 07, 2008
By: Ravi Howard
An afternoon with cultural critic Albert Murray
Mississippi River Road
Jan 07, 2008
By: Andy Anderson & Tim Gautreaux
Part 3 of a Pictorial Journey
Tower Power
Jan 07, 2008
By: Steve Eubanks
Architect Keith Summerour takes his vision of vertical living to rural Georgia
Foraging the Forgotten Coast
Jan 07, 2008
By: Dan Huntley
Preparing a seaside feast in Apalachicola
Wine on the Half Shell
Jan 07, 2008
By: Barbara Ensrud
Seasonal pairings for oysters and clams
Mississippi River Road - Part 2
Nov 07, 2007
By: Andy Anderson & Tim Gautreaux
A Pictorial Journey
Ode to Bourbon
Nov 07, 2007
By: Roy Blount, Jr.
Sweet Reflection on a Sour Mash
Inside Crazy Sista's Kitchen
Nov 07, 2007
By: J. Wes Yoder
Spinning plates and swapping stories at LuLu’s in Alabama with chef and owner Lucy Buffett
Life After Politics
Nov 07, 2007
By: Alex Sanders
After losing a senatorial election, the writer finds redemption in monks and fruitcakes
Emerald Greens
Nov 06, 2007
By: Steve Eubanks
Two Southern cousins dream up Doonbeg Golf Club in Ireland
Mumsy's Big Move
Nov 06, 2007
By: Charlie Geer
A Southern grandmother heads west to forget
Mississippi River Road
Sep 25, 2007
By: A Pictorial Journey by Andy Anderson
Text by Tim Gautreaux
Living Legends of Jazz
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Come hell or high water, New Orleans plays on
Living Legends of Jazz - Lionel Ferbos
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - Lawrence Cotton
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - Daniel Farrow
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - Peter "Chuck" Badie
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - Wendell Eugene
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - Thais Clark
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Living Legends of Jazz - "Uncle" Lionel Batiste
Sep 25, 2007
By: Michael White
Shifting Tides
Sep 24, 2007
By: John Barry
Relying on the Mississippi to rebuild New Orleans
Mating Game
Sep 24, 2007
By: Barbara Ensrud
Pairing bird and bottle to perfection
High Heels and Air Rifles
Sep 24, 2007
By: Marshall Chapman
A Southern woman battles squirrels and embraces fate
Bermuda White
Jun 26, 2007
By: Ben Brown
Storm-Worthy New Urbanism on the Beach
The Bard of Point Clear
Jun 26, 2007
By: Roy Hoffman
The Inimitable Winston Groom
Jubilee
Jun 26, 2007
By: Jimbo Meador
Gigging Fish by Tide and Moon
page: 1 2 3 4 5 6

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Blues Train

By: Ravi Howard
January 07, 2008

Albert Murray in his Harlem home.
credit: photo courtesy of Alabama Center for Public Television
Albert Murray watches the world outside through wide windows. It is the home one might expect for a ninety-one-year-old writer of thirteen books, including four novels and critical works on blues and jazz. The shelves of records and books stretch from floor to ceiling just as the windows do. We are eight stories above the avenues of Harlem, and from this vantage Albert Murray speaks of home. He speaks of trains — not of the subway lines passing beneath Manhattan, but the trains of his youth around Mobile, Alabama.

“We lived at Magazine Point, and that was the end of the streetcar line to downtown Mobile.” He calls into the station of memory the cars that took him to points about town, but he also remembers those trains that took him to most any city in America.

“Magazine was on the L&N line. The L&N is the Louisville and Nashville, see.”

Murray rattles off the city names like the shuffling letters on railway departure boards. He says New Orleans with a laugh, pronouncing it in that precise way locals do. He then moves north. Memphis. Pittsburgh. Detroit.

“That was a big deal when I was a kid, going up to Detroit.”
Murray has covered the black migration in his work, and he has also covered his family’s journey. Shortly after his birth in 1916, his family left Nokomis, Alabama, in search of work near Mobile. Trains run through Murray’s memory because the railroad was family business.

“Mr. Murray, who was my adoptive father, was a great crosstie cutter,” he says. “You know what a crosstie is?”

“For the railroad?” I say.

“Yes, for the railroad. That was a big deal, man, in terms of work. Some people have forgotten it.”

That sense of remembrance has driven Murray to chronicle journeys, real and imagined. After a twenty-year Air Force career and posts in higher education, Murray published his first novel in 1974. His debut, Train Whistle Guitar, won the Lillian Smith Award for Southern Fiction. He published three more novels in that series, The Spyglass Tree (1991), The Seven League Boots (1996), and The Magic Keys (2005).

In Train Whistle Guitar Murray writes of two schoolboys, Scooter and Buddy, poised to jump a freight into the unknown. The author chronicles the journey from Mobile to New York, coloring both cities with his trademark language. He calls Mobile the Alabama bay city gateway to the Spanish Main and the seven seas, and his New York the beanstalk castle town of skyscrapers and patent-leather avenues and taxicab horns and motors and subway trains

His real-life journey from Magazine Point to New York started with education. A 1939 graduate of the Tuskegee Institute, Murray completed graduate studies at New York University in 1948 while serving as an Air Force staff-training officer. Murray has lectured at Columbia University, Emory University, and his undergraduate alma mater.

Tuskegee was dear to Murray because it is where he met classmate Ralph Ellison, who went on to write Invisible Man. They developed an enduring friendship, and Murray coedited Trading Twelves, a collection of letters they exchanged. His affinity for letter writing was cultivated in his whistle-stop hometown, a place that offered two avenues to the outside world.

“In Magazine Point there was a post office, and there was a train stop.”

During a pre-interview phone call, Murray asked me to send him a note about the particulars of my visit. It is fitting that my trip began at the post office and ended at a subway stop.

I arrived in Harlem early and visited the New York Public Library on the corner of 136th Street and Lenox Avenue. A gentle rumble passed through the building as the subway moved underground. Perhaps this image best symbolizes the prose style of Albert Murray. The lines are heard as well as read.

Nor can I remember when I had not yet heard him playing the blues on his guitar as if he were also an engineer telling tall tales on a train whistle, his left hand doing most of the talking including the laughing and signifying as well as the moaning and crying and even the whining, while his right hand thumped the wheels going somewhere.

The more I considered a writing career, the more I saw Murray’s work as a guide. My grandfather worked the shipyards that Murray has described. I have visited Bienville Square in downtown Mobile and on Murray’s pages. He defines his Alabama just as Ernest Gaines presents his Louisiana, Lee Smith her Virginia, and Pat Conroy his South Carolina.

A jazz historian and Count Basie biographer, Murray has evoked music on the page. As one of the cofounders of Jazz at Lincoln Center, he has earned the respect of musicians. Perhaps Duke Ellington said it best: “An authority on soul from the days of old, [Albert Murray] is right on track back to back and commands respect.” Murray has likened the paragraph to a jam session. Sentences are improvisations, and the writer should be open to where the journey leads.

In Murray’s four novels the journey leads to Philamayork, the fictional Northern Atlantis that beckons Murray’s Scooter. Before his travels begin, Scooter climbs a chinaberry tree, his “spyglass tree,” and looks out on the horizon of sawmills, marshes, and rail yards. He adds what he imagines.

As Albert Murray and I sit in his apartment, Scooter is on a nearby shelf in worn editions, and through the spyglass window Mobile and Harlem share space on the horizon. You cannot see the trains, neither bygone trolleys nor modern subways, but there are places around Harlem where you can feel them underfoot. There are places in Mobile where you can imagine their passing. As it is in fiction, the unseen becomes vivid. We are standing near the tracks with Murray and his Scooter, who after these many years finds himself this many miles along the way.