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The Gator Wrestlers
Oct 01, 2008
By: Allison Glock
In Florida, veteran gator men are trying to keep their jobs – and their fingers
Follow the Hounds
Oct 01, 2008
By: Barclay Rives
A foxhunting marathon across the rolling terrain of Virginia's Piedmont
A Hunter at Heart
Oct 01, 2008
By: Donovan Webster
Rolling Stones keyboardist Chuck Leavell makes his home on a magnificent hunting plantation outside of Macon, Georgia. And you’re invited to stop by for a visit
Nature Girl
Sep 30, 2008
By: Monte Burke
Why Jennie Turner Garlington wants more kids to grow up outside
Goodbye, Bo Diddley
Aug 12, 2008
By: Matt Hendrickson
The father of rock and roll was all about his Southern roots
Who Do You Love
Aug 12, 2008
By: Jimmy Buffett
A true story of music, magic, and a long night in the desert with Bo Diddley
The Pork Is in the Mail
Aug 12, 2008
By: Francine Maroukian
A cultural tour of the best mail-order food in the South
The Lost Confederados
Aug 12, 2008
By: Gary Hawkins
Why thousands of Southerners fled to Brazil after the Civil War, why they stayed, and why their descendants still remember
Best of the New South
Aug 12, 2008
50 people, places and things that make us proud
Miranda Lambert - The New Queen of Country
Aug 08, 2008
By: Marshall Chapman
Sweet Tea
Jul 02, 2008
By: Allison Glock
A Love Story
Water Women
Jun 23, 2008
By: Christian Harkness
A tribute to female clam farmers in Cedar Key, Florida
Sailing in Style
Jun 23, 2008
By: Caroline McCoy
Taking to the water for a few hours—or days—no longer means throwing a pair of oilskins in your duffel
Force of Nature
Jun 18, 2008
By: Chris Dixon
Beau Turner controls two million acres of forest and ranch land. Thankfully, he'd like to see much of it restored to its natural state
Death by Cuban Sandwich
Jun 12, 2008
By: Rick Bragg
How Cuban expats are killing Castro with roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, and prayer
The Plant Hunter
Jun 12, 2008
By: Daniel Wallace
The Indiana Jones of horticulture, Tony Avent travels the globe in search of rare plants for his North Carolina nursery
The Family Guns
Jun 12, 2008
By: Clyde Edgerton
When shotguns are passed from one generation to the next, they tell stories—both good and bad
Southern Dream Towns
Jun 11, 2008
By: Allston McCrady
Whether you’re looking for a place to tie up your flats skiff, stable your horse, or even put down some roots, we’ve found the twenty sweetest small towns south of the Mason-Dixon Line
Island Time
Apr 28, 2008
By: Various Writers
An intimate look at the South's wild — and undiscovered — barrier islands
Going Whole Hog
Apr 24, 2008
By: John Currence
Thirty hours of whiskey, smoke, and pure pandemonium
Davis Love's Wild Side
Apr 24, 2008
By: Joe Bargmann
When Davis Love III needs to get away from golf, he heads to his 2,890-acre spread on the Georgia coast, which he's turned into the ultimate sporting retreat. But even there, he can't always escape from a life occasionally marred by tragedy
The Legend of Black Gold
Apr 24, 2008
By: Winston Groom
An unforgettable Indian horse that gave it all — and more
Game Changers
Apr 24, 2008
By: Phil Bourjaily
Eight sporting clays guns that will help you shoot straight and look good doing it (even when you miss)
This is Quail Country
Feb 21, 2008
By: Charles W. Waring III
Sporting traditions, conservation, and history abound on the plantations of Thomasville, Georgia.
A Room at Eudora’s
Feb 21, 2008
By: Reynolds Price
Four decades of letters, visits, and memorable cocktails with a dear friend
The Soul of Slow Food
Feb 21, 2008
By: Moreton Neal
North Carolina Chef Andrea Reusing forms a delicious and ambitious partnership with area farmers
Bird Fights
Feb 21, 2008
By: Sandy Lang
Rooster and parrot struggle for life in and around the Puerto Rican rainforest of El Yunque
The Longleaf Pine
Jan 04, 2008
By: Jack Hitt
Rebuilding the fireforest of the Old South
In Full Pursuit
Jan 04, 2008
By: Hunter Kennedy
Foxhunting with Ben Hardaway and his legendary crossbred hounds
Latitude Adjustment
Jan 04, 2008
By: Carter Worrell
Tropical destinations to cure the winter doldrums
Wing Shooting on Top of the World
Jan 04, 2008
By: Geoffrey Norman
Pheasant Hunting in Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains
Argentina Dove Shoot
Nov 06, 2007
By: John Currence
A shooter's dream, a Catholic's nightmare. On a father-son hunting trip, camaraderie and competition converge.
The Waldingfield Beagles
Nov 06, 2007
By: Bryan Hunter
The oldest beagle pack in America perseveres with the help of a Virginia doctor
Botantical Muses
Nov 06, 2007
By: Caroline McCoy
Holiday evenings inspired by Southern gardens
Fine Shotguns and Their Makers
Nov 06, 2007
By: Winston Groom
Winston Groom sets his sights on world’s best shotguns – then and now
Devoted to the Chase
Sep 25, 2007
By: Chalmers Poston
Opening day of Georgia's famed Belle Meade Hunt
Biloxi Reds
Sep 25, 2007
By: Charles Gaines
Wrestling redfish on the Louisiana Marsh
Reverie on Roanoke Island
Sep 25, 2007
By: Marjorie Hudson
An Elizabethan garden on the Outer Banks honors the mystery of the Lost Colony
Memphis Calling
Sep 25, 2007
By: Andria Lisle
How the gem of the Delta inspired the blues, Piggly Wiggly, and the Peabody Duck March
Upwardly Mobile
Jun 26, 2007
By: Jennifer Paddock
A Historic Southern City Raises Its Profile
I Was Binx Bolling
Jun 26, 2007
By: Doug Marlette
Feeling like the title character in The Moviegoer , I was at a crossroads – a perfect time to spend a day in Highlands, North Carolina with Walker Percy.
The Southern Cross
Jun 26, 2007
By: Liz Clark
A Spoonful of the Unknown – Liz Clark and the Voyage of Swell
Southern Wahine
Jun 26, 2007
By: Gary Hawkins
Shoulder-High and Glassy with Barrels
Boxwood
Jun 26, 2007
By: Allston McCrady
An Antebellum Garden with Deep Southern Roots
Under A Cuban Moon
Jun 26, 2007
By: John Wilson
Garden & Gun travels to Havana in search of Hemingway's legacy
page: 1 2 3 4 5

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A Room at Eudora’s

By: Reynolds Price
February 21, 2008

Welty visits with Price in Durham, North Carolina, in 1988, when she was seventy-nine.
credit: Photos courtesy of the Eudora Welty family
The Welty home — at 1119 Pinehurst Place in Jackson, Mississippi — is a handsome mock-Tudor two-story house with an attic, typical of the upper-middle-class white residences that I, as a boy in the thirties, might have thought of as “country-club swanky,” though it sits on a quiet suburban street, immediately opposite what was then a sedate Presbyterian girls’ school. And in fact it was built in 1925 by Christian Welty, a Swiss-German native of Ohio who was president of Lamar Life Insurance Company, a successful institution of the Deep South. After his death and the death of his wife, Chestina Andrews, from West Virginia, I spent many happy days there as a guest of their only daughter, the short story writer and novelist Eudora Welty.

When we first met in February 1955, I was a senior at Duke, headed to England for three years of graduate study at Oxford University. She’d been invited to lecture by an undergraduate women’s organization. At the time I was a student in William Blackburn’s undergraduate writing class. He was the esteemed teacher whose class in Elizabethan and Jacobean poetry had been a great encouragement for such students as William Styron, Mac Hyman, and me. Styron and Hyman were a near decade older than I, but we’d each been moved by both the boundless eloquence of those old poetic and dramatic voices and Blackburn’s own power as their modern expounder.

And since all three of us were hopeful of becoming writers of fiction, we’d likewise taken (some years apart) Blackburn’s famous English 103-104. In those days, it was one of only two creative writing courses available in the Duke English department, and though Blackburn himself could barely write a postcard, he had the inexplicable gift of encouragement, which helped a small handful of male students onward into successful careers as novelists (he seldom encouraged female students on the grounds that, as he told me, they almost always went from college straight into marriage and children, with little time for writing).

When Blackburn learned of Welty’s coming to Duke for a few days early in ’55, he assigned our class the new Random House edition of her early stories, and we spent a good deal of time discussing such classics of the genre as “Why I Live at the P.O.,” “A Worn Path,” and “Petrified Man.” I’d discovered her work earlier, as a high-school student in Raleigh, and was eager to meet her. The world she described seemed so close to my own, and I’d made my commitment to a lifetime career as a writer at the age of sixteen. But by the time of Welty’s visit to campus (I turned twenty-two that month), I’d written only one story with professional ambitions, a story called “Michael Egerton.” I was plainly hoping for a usable charge of excitement.

I learned that her train was to arrive in Durham well after midnight, and I knew that, so late, there’d be no taxis available at the depot. Her hotel was four or five blocks away, and I couldn’t quite envision a Mississippi lady carrying her bag through the freezing, pitch-dark streets of downtown Durham, utterly alone. So, entirely on my own, I turned up to meet her. Strangely, the train was on time. I saw her step off a carriage — she was then nearly six feet tall — and since she’d asked not to be met, I stepped forward to explain, quietly, who I was and what I was offering to do. After glancing around at the deserted precincts of the station, adjacent to the jail, she smiled and thanked me. Then I delivered her, in my mother’s green Chrysler convertible, straight to the lobby of the old downtown Washington Duke Hotel. I told her how much I looked forward to her lecture that coming night and the seminar she’d offered to give the following day to a small group of students. Then I sped away.

The lecture — her later famous essay “Place in Fiction” — went smoothly, once the soundman managed to silence interruptive strains of “The Darktown Strutters’ Ball” (the campus radio station had somehow invaded Miss Welty’s microphone). And the next day, in the course of her seminar, she discussed “Michael Egerton,” and ended by asking if she could send it to her agent.

Send my slender story? Well, could she? Despite a twenty-four-year gap in our ages, a friendship was cemented on the spot, and that night I drove her and Blackburn to a steak dinner at the Ranch House in Chapel Hill (given that restaurants in North Carolina couldn’t then serve wine or liquor, nothing more ambitious was available, and the steaks were tender). The next afternoon I drove her out to Howard Johnson’s for coffee and the first of a thousand conversations ranging from the hilarious to the woeful — mainly the hilarious.

When she was back in Mississippi, our correspondence commenced in only a few days. And before long I was sending her my just completed second serious piece of work, a long story called “A Chain of Love” — one in which I invented a character with the odd name of Rosacoke Mustian. And later that spring, just after my graduation, I met her in New York and spent high good times with her there for a few days, meeting various friends of hers and seeing the premier stage production of Bus Stop, with the incomparable Kim Stanley.

It was at one of those meetings that Eudora (as I’d now been asked to call her) began to tell me about “the long story” she herself had recently begun. So far, it centered on a family reunion to celebrate a young male relative’s release from the state pen. Neither of us knew that it would be fifteen years before the story was completed and published as the long novel Losing Battles, in 1970.

That September I sailed off to England, and from then till the late 1960s, Eudora was essentially an inmate of the house on Pinehurst. The eye infections that began to plague Chestina Welty in the mid-1950s slowly plunged that well-read and inventive woman deeper and deeper into physical and psychic misery, and soon those troubles required Eudora’s almost constant attendance. When I returned from England in ’58, I saw her very rarely, generally at moments when she could dash away from home (always by train — she was then afraid of flight — to make a few much needed dollars on a lecture).

She seldom mentioned the fact that further work on her long story was proving nearly impossible, and I didn’t ask. She could seldom write in the midst of hard times, a trait that would distress her late in life; many hard years passed. And then in the winter of ’66, her mother and her sole surviving brother both died in a week’s time. Not long after such a shock, Eudora turned to work as a form of healing. First, she completed an initial draft of a beautiful short novel called The Optimist’s Daughter, and then the old long story, which was now on the verge of becoming Losing Battles.

That spring she visited me at my new home in the country outside Durham, and one night the two of us sat in my dim living room as she read me, over two hours, various episodes from the long-planned story of a family reunion. I thought it was literally magical and told her so; she said that no one but me had yet heard it. And when she left, she said how much she hoped her mother’s house (as she was still calling it), would be fit to welcome me before much longer. By then it was clear we loved each other, in undemanding ways, so I hoped for the same.

Then, in late 1969, she asked me to come down and join her on New Year’s Eve for a ritual reopening of the house to friends and houseguests. Her old friend, the Anglo-Irish novelist Elizabeth Bowen, would be there, and Eudora meant to entertain Elizabeth at a feast. I’d long admired Bowen’s fiction and had met her when she visited Duke in my junior year, so of course I flew down. Two of Eudora’s lifelong male friends met me at the airport, and a splendid visit ensued — some three or four days.

Eudora had long since taken her parents’ old room, a large second-story room overlooking the street, and Elizabeth Bowen was in a guest room on the same landing. I had what ultimately the maid Arlene, because of my frequent visits, came to call “Mr. Price’s room,” a small ground-floor room adjacent to its own bath. Beside my bed hung an imposing photograph of Eudora’s grandmother Andrews. It would be a good while before I realized it was the room in which Chestina Welty had spent her awful last years.

The party was a feast indeed. Eudora had never claimed to be a skilled cook. Almost to the end of her life, whenever she attempted to cook, she’d lament, “If only my mother could see this, she’d weep with shame.” She was certainly a slow cook, and her repertoire of dishes was small and comprised mostly seafood. But they mostly succeeded in being tasty, if you didn’t die of hunger before she served them. For the New Year’s Eve feast, she’d found a caterer who provided what Eudora called “a baron of beef,” with all the necessary accompaniments and the quantities of hard liquor and good wine that any Jackson hostess considered imperative, despite the fact that all such items had to be bought from a local bootlegger (Mississippi was technically dry).

Google tells me that, in British tradition, a baron of beef is “a large, important section of beef containing both sirloins.” To be sure, Eudora’s “important” roast was larger than any human baron at Runnymede, and the ten of us guests made deep raids on its goodness (as we did on the various ranks of bottles). It truly was the first celebration Eudora had offered in well more than a decade, and apart from my own pleasure in the evening, I could see a good part of what it meant to Eudora. She was thereby making her own loving claim on the house she’d known for most of her life, and my sense of being the youngest of the friends invited by a shy woman to share in the evening was a gift way beyond any normal social invitation, however generous.

In succeeding years I made at least three or four annual trips to Jackson, sometimes for a simple quiet visit, other times for one of the numerous first-rate shindigs with which Mississippians of Eudora’s generation frequently regaled themselves. I can recall visits for performances of dramatic adaptations of her work at the excellent New Stage Theatre (there was even an opera made from her Ponder Heart), plus a trip to the state university at Oxford, Mississippi, for a celebration of Eudora’s work (a photo survives of us standing in front of an Oxford beauty parlor with a highly legible come-on slogan printed above us — “We will curl up and dye for you”). In fact, I became such a regular in the Welty house that, when another shindig was being planned by a group of Eudora’s friends and my name was mentioned, one woman said, “Don’t ask Reynolds; he’ll come!”

All my life, I’ve never been a great traveler — I mostly stay home and work — but till I was forced to sit down in a wheelchair in 1984, I continued my trips to Jackson, and I almost invariably stayed at 1119 Pinehurst in “Mr. Price’s room.” Eudora’s company was of course the main magnet, but I’d also come to love the uncluttered silence that pervaded the sizable downstairs rooms and the old-fashioned kitchen that Eudora never modernized. I recall it, rightly or not, as almost entirely white in its color scheme, and I know that once, when I requested scalloped oysters for our dinner, I stood by the enormous old sink and watched Eudora take more than two hours to prepare that simple dish (she’d bought an entire quart of oysters, and she’d examine each one for the slightest imperfection; with her excessively suspicious eye, she discarded more than half the quart). Chestina Welty’s garden in the back had gone to ruin in the years of her illness, and as Eudora worked at the sink, she would often glance out a back window and, again, say how her mother would never forgive her for such negligence. That daughter went to her own grave with a still-heavy burden of miscellaneous guilts pertaining to such a paragon of a mother.

From my room I could hear Eudora’s early rising to make the large pot of coffee that would see us through the morning (she could never drink caffeine after eleven; she said it would keep her awake all the next night). A little later we’d eat breakfast in the small breakfast room before we each went about whatever chores we had (often I’d work alone in my room while she drove out to the nearby Jitney Jungle for groceries, or an appointment to get her hair washed and set).

For lunch we’d make a sandwich or Eudora would drive us out to some small café where old friends almost always greeted us in a thoroughly easygoing way. Even then, her driving was often hair-raising in its indifference to curbstones or other drivers. Her old friends would whisper to me that I might want to offer to drive when Eudora and I went out; but whenever I’d make the offer, she’d wave me aside — “Nobody can work these old gears but me” (and of course she scorned anything resembling an automatic gear shift). Wherever we ate, or traveled, in Jackson in those days, she was never treated with any of the awe that surrounded her in later years and that I could never comprehend her bearing; it slowed all aspects of her life.

In the late afternoons we’d have big glasses of whiskey — bourbon for her, Scotch for me. Eudora drank very little, but her daily four or five ounces of bourbon were indispensable to happiness, and literally all my visits to that house, until the late ’80s, were happy occasions. On the antiquated black-and-white TV, we’d listen to David Brinkley read the nightly news; and then we’d eat a small dinner on Pinehurst or a grander meal at some friend’s house. Generally we’d retire to our separate rooms early, for an hour or so of reading before sleep.

Lest such visits sound oppressively dull (and I’ve omitted the constant gales of laughter), I’ll note that one Sunday afternoon, before drinks time, was memorable for its strangeness. Eudora and I were sitting in the living room talking quietly when we heard, from upstairs, apparently, a shockingly loud crash, as though the roof had fallen or a big piece of furniture had been overturned. For the only time in all the years I knew her, Eudora’s face was alarmed. She stood at once and said, “I’d better go see.” I couldn’t let her go alone; so, Southern gent that I was, I led the way up to the landing, standing aside to let Eudora precede me into her bedroom. With me close behind, she looked round the spotless neatness of the room, then into her bathroom. No sign of trouble.

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