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The Sweet Sounds of Nashville
Oct 01, 2008
By: Marshall Chapman
Music City is rich in culture, song, and southern soul
Live in Twangtown
Oct 01, 2008
By: Marshall Chapman
With an abundance of great venues, Nashville lives up to its name
Beyond the Music
Oct 01, 2008
By: Jim Myers
As any local knows, Nashville is more than juke joints and concert halls
The Brazen City
Aug 12, 2008
By: Candice Dyer
Atlanta surprises and sparkles with energy, unity, and unabashed self-promotion
Dishing It Out
Aug 12, 2008
By: John Kessler
The top ten things to eat in Atlanta
Secret Atlanta
Aug 12, 2008
By: John Kessler
Exploring A-Town can feel like a treasure hunt, but that’s the fun of it
Higher Living
Jun 20, 2008
By: Donovan Webster
Thomas Jefferson imagined Charlottesville as home to a great university. It is that—and so much more
Hallowed Grounds
Jun 20, 2008
By: Donna M. Lucey
A not-so-stuffy tour of Mr. Jefferson's university
From Dawn to Dusk
Jun 20, 2008
By: Donovan Webster
A local's take on the best that Charlottesville has to offer
Local Luminaries
Jun 20, 2008
By: Cathy Harding
From farmers to musicians, an eclectic mix makes Charlottesville home
The Raw and the Cooked
Apr 22, 2008
By: Hunter Kennedy
Ten things you simply must eat
The Forever Plantation
Apr 22, 2008
By: William Baldwin
History and lunch at Middleton Place
Uncharted Charleston
Apr 22, 2008
By: Maura Hogan
An insider's guide, from morning til night
The Wild Bunch
Apr 22, 2008
By: Chris Dixon
How landowners and conservationists have banded together to protect the Carolina coast
City by the Sea
Apr 21, 2008
By: Jack Bass
The culture and soul of Charleston, South Carolina
Augusta: No Clubs Required
Mar 09, 2008
By: Clint Bowie
Georgia's Garden City offers more than tee time
Augusta: The River and the Reds
Mar 09, 2008
By: David Foster
Augusta: The "I Feel Good" Driving Tour
Mar 09, 2008
By: William Cameron Henry
Augusta: Great Augustans
Mar 09, 2008
By: Rick Brown
Destination Oxford, Mississippi
Jan 07, 2008
By: Lisa Neumann Howorth
The Little Easy No More
Oxford Town, Oxford Town . . .
Jan 07, 2008
By: Lisa Neumann Howorth
Your Guide to Oxford
Oxford Personalities
Jan 07, 2008
By: Lisa Neumann Howorth
Meet some of Oxford's more notable personalities
The Pleasures of Palm Beach
Nov 07, 2007
By: Les Standiford
Henry Flagler's Paradise Shines On
Gold Coasting
Nov 07, 2007
By: M. B. Roberts
A stroll along Worth Avenue in Palm Beach is sport for the avid shopper
Well-Heeled in Wellington
Nov 07, 2007
By: Shanon Robb
A Palm Beach outpost hosts the horsey set
All-Star Casting
Nov 07, 2007
By: M. B. Roberts
Billionaire’s Row lures anglers of every stripe
Memphis Calling - Swine Dining
Sep 25, 2007
By: Andria Lisle
Memphis Calling - Notable Folks
Sep 25, 2007
By: Andria Lisle
Eating Local in Memphis
Sep 25, 2007
By: Andria Lisle
Writers in Residence
Jun 26, 2007
By: Jennifer Paddock
A Rising Class of Writers Finds Roots in Mobile
Upwardly Mobile
Jun 26, 2007
By: Jennifer Paddock
A look Around Town
page: 1 2 3 4

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The Raw and the Cooked

By: Hunter Kennedy
April 22, 2008

Fish Head Stew and fried chicken, Gullah Cuisine
credit: photograph by Peter Frank Edwards
If there is an American city whose story can be told through food, it is Charleston. By any measure, the city is surrounded by an embarrassment of riches. From the local waters come shrimp, oysters, clams, flounder, and stone crab. There’s grouper from the Atlantic and pork from pasture-bred pigs from Caw Caw Creek. Carolina Gold rice, on which the city’s fortune was built, is again being planted, while family farms provide fresh local produce year-round. It would probably take you a lifetime to fully appreciate all the great food in this town, especially with the talented new chefs who now seem to be on every corner. But some dishes stand out, and some are so deeply Charlestonian you just can’t find them anywhere else. Here are ten of my favorites:

Fish Head Stew
Gullah Cuisine
Made with the meat picked from fresh grouper heads, this spicy stew of tomatoes, okra, cayenne peppers, and bay leaves puts a cup of ordinary Louisiana gumbo to shame. Fish Head Stew is just one of owner Charlotte Jenkins’ many family recipes, and at the lunch buffet you can have your fill of this stew and her amazing fried chicken for less than ten bucks. 843-881-9076

Shad Roe with Grits
Hominy Grill
In Charleston, it is often easier to find a plate of shrimp and grits than a parking space. For a more daring take on this traditional dish, try chef Robert Stehling’s shad roe sautéed with crumbled bacon, mushrooms, scallions, and a dash of lemon (available late February to late April). Served over stone-ground grits, the three ounces of fine-grained roe burst with a mild sea essence. 843-937-0930

Fried Shrimp
The Wreck of the Richard & Charlene
Hidden between the shrimp boats at the mouth of Shem Creek, the Wreck serves some of the freshest, sweetest shrimp in the city. This thin-skinned delicacy comes straight off the boats at the Wando Shrimp Company next door, which freezes local shrimp for the Wreck’s “still-better-than-imported” off-season platters. The half- or quarter-pound platters, with shrimp fried with ultra-light breading, come straight to the table on paper plates, with sides of red rice, coleslaw, hush puppies, and a fried grit cake. With no frills and no hurry to finish, you can enjoy the view from the huge back porch until it’s too dark to see. 843-884-0052

Pan-Fried Quail Breast
S.N.O.B. (Slightly North of Broad)
If you are hunting for a tasty dinner, follow your bird dog directly to Slightly North of Broad, where chef Frank Lee serves a mean pan-fried quail over cheese grits with port wine reduction. Seared brown in a seasoned pan, the breasts are tender enough to be cut with a fork and taste a heck of a lot better than yard bird. Lee is the godfather of the Slow Food movement in Charleston, buying and serving locally grown products long before it became fashionable. Let’s hope this dish at S.N.O.B. has a long hunting season. 843-723-3424

Jumbo Carolina Flounder with
Littleneck Clams

FIG (Food Is Good)
Chef Mike Lata sets the standard in Charleston for what’s possible when building an entire menu around fresh and local ingredients. His unlikely pairing of North Carolina jumbo flounder and local littleneck clams from the Folly River allows these denizens of the marsh to socialize together in a pleasantly muddied broth of white wine and clam juice. New potatoes and leeks from Wadmalaw Island only add to the festivities. 843-805-5900

Stewed Cabbage
Martha Lou’s Kitchen
For twenty-five years, Martha Lou Gadsden has served lunch and dinner from this pink cinder-block hut by the railroad tracks. Her fans include neighborhood families, longshoremen, and Charleston’s award-winning food writers Matt and Ted Lee. With eight dinner plates and twenty-six sides to choose from, there are plenty of tempting options, but the stewed cabbage with ham hock and red pepper makes you realize there’s more to life than collards. 843-577-9583

Stone Crab Claws
Hank’s Seafood Restaurant
Even most locals don’t know that stone crab claws from the inlets around Charleston Harbor rival their Florida cousins. Each week during the brief local seasons (March and April; September, October, and November) Raul’s Seafood on Shem Creek hauls in around fifty pounds of claws, delivering the armor-plated appetizers to the restaurant the same day they are caught. Chef Frank McMahon keeps the fresh claws at room temperature until ready to boil so the sweet, briny flesh doesn’t stick to the shell. You can pick the claws clean before the drawn butter cools. 843-723-FISH

Milk-Fed Caw Caw Creek Pork with Otto File Polenta and Turnips
McCrady’s
The intensity of thirty-year-old chef Sean Brock is conveyed in his dynamic approach to fresh and local cooking, whether he’s growing his own vegetables on Wadmalaw Island or tracking down milk-fed hogs from Caw Caw Creek. The amazingly rich pork from pasture-raised pigs, served with Anson Mills polenta made from heirloom Otto File corn and Brock’s hand-grown turnips, reminds you how good it is to be home. 843-577-0025

Roasted Oysters
Bowens Island Restaurant
Almost all the way to Folly Beach, this third-generation seafood restaurant is celebrated as much for its legendary graffiti and rustic charm as for its oyster dinners. Order one tray of oysters or all you can eat, grab an oyster knife and glove, and take a seat at a plywood table overlooking Folly Creek. For more than sixty years, the restaurant has picked its delicious clusters from the many oyster beds within view of the island. It also serves a mean fried shrimp and fish platter. Recognized for distinction by the James Beard Foundation and Southern Foodways Alliance, Bowens Island is one of the last of its kind in the Lowcountry. 843-795-2757

Frutti di Bosco Sorbet
Gelateria Modica
Nothing provides a better tribute to the diverse cultural influences in Charleston than a cup of Frutti di Bosco sorbet made from fresh local strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries from cooler parts of the state. Like some of the best dishes from this city, the complex flavors of this vivid dessert are a result of the recipe’s simplicity. 843-723-8868