Beyond the Music

Gussy Up: Manuel Cuevas has been making stage outfits since the 1960s. credit: Caroline Allison

Like a good country song, Nashville offers more than the three chords and the truth tourists have long come seeking. As the town grows into a full-fledged modern city, finding its charms, however, takes a bit more sleuthing. Here’s a short list for what can’t be missed.

EAT

For an authentic taste of true Nashville, head to Arnold’s Country Kitchen (605 8th Ave. South; 615-256-4455), a plate lunch joint that’s part of the meat-and-three tradition of the city. It’s where judges dine next to workmen and record executives sit across from starving songwriters; and it’s where “Mr. Guitar” Chet Atkins used to dine almost every week. The fried green tomatoes and roast beef have cult status in a town that knows home cooking.

For a classical Southern dinner, try the Standard at the Smith House (167 Rosa L. Parks Blvd.; 615-254-1277), which showcases chef Joe Shaw’s menu in one of the city’s last remaining antebellum town houses. The veal meat loaf with wild mushroom gravy will make you thank the gods.

And don’t miss dinner at Margot Café & Bar (1017 Woodland St.; 615-227-4668) in East Nashville, just across the river from downtown. Located in the heart of the district that’s seen the biggest renaissance in the last ten years, Margot was local before local was cool, with a rustic menu that emphasizes seasonal flavors over flash. Just down the hill from the rustic Margot is chef Margot McCormack’s more casual outpost, Marche Artisan Foods (1000 Main St.;
615-262-1111).

SLEEP

To make like one of the many country stars who filter through town, snare a room at the Loews Vanderbilt Hotel, across the campus from Vanderbilt University (2100 W. End Ave.; 615-320-1700) and just down the street from Music Row.

History buffs might wish to stay downtown for the five-star luxury of the Hermitage Hotel (231 Sixth Ave. North; 888-888-9414). Insiders know to visit the men’s bathroom, a marvel in deco green that’s one of the wonders of the city. Women also appreciate the hotel’s history as a prominent site during the Tennessee General Assembly’s vote on suffrage (though the anti-suffrage camp stayed there): Passage of the Nineteenth Amendment in Tennessee forced its ratification as an amendment to the United States Constitution.

SEE

While Franklin, the charming town about twenty miles south of the city, saw one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War, downtown Nashville escaped destruction thanks to a strong line of defense by Union troops that had occupied the city. There are still some remarkable homes from that period, the most famous being the horse lovers’ Belle Meade Plantation (5025 Harding Rd.; 615-356-0501). A notable stud farm, Belle Meade was home to Iroquois after the Thoroughbred became famous. The plantation’s stables and carriage house alone are worth the visit. After a tour, stay for lunch at Martha’s at the Plantation, for chef Martha Stamps’ elegant interpretations of Southern favorites.

There are also astounding escapes well within the city limits. Follow the length of Belle Meade Boulevard to reach the gates of Warner Parks (50 Vaughn Rd.; 615-352-6299), the city’s largest preserve, with more than 2,800 acres. It offers a complete escape, with miles of hiking trails, and is the site of the Iroquois Steeplechase, one of the largest brush-jump races on the circuit, held the second Saturday in May.

SHOP

You can’t leave Nashville without introducing yourself to Manuel Cuevas, at Manuel’s Exclusive Clothier (1922 Broadway; 615-321-5444). Cuevas has been making spectacular stage outfits since he started with Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors in 1960s Hollywood. From rhinestone majesties (Elvis Presley) to subtle black-on-black embroidery (Bob Dylan), his work is costume history. He’s also charming and loves to show off his studio and showroom.

For some of Nashville’s more traditional storefronts, head to Hillsboro Road and the Bandywood section of Green Hills, the city’s best shopping zip code. There you’ll find AshBlue (2170 Bandywood Dr.; 615-383-4882), a housewares shop Charles Darwin might have opened (it sells giant seedpods and ostrich eggs), and across the street, the Caldwell Collection (2205 Bandywood Dr.; 615-298-5800), best known for the copper and antler serving pieces made by local artisan Ben Caldwell.

For a more anachronistic shopping experience, take a short drive into the country to Woodland Antiques (5180 Fire Tower Rd., Franklin; 615-512-0931). This hand-hewn home, hidden in the forest on a ridge top, is the beautiful folly of writer/antique dealer Hunter Kay. His Southern travels yield coins, silver treasures, and the best examples of Southern furniture.