Jed Portman

Build a Better Chicken Biscuit

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJuly 24, 2014

Jason Roy makes biscuits. Pulled pork biscuits, country ham biscuits, biscuits loaded with black-eyed pea cakes and green chile hollandaise, and with fried green tomatoes and hunks of halfway-melted brie. The two locations of his Asheville, North Carolina restaurant, Biscuit Head, may be two of the only places in the country where a person can enjoy a gravy flight—a selection of several options from a list that includes pork gravy, fried chicken gravy, sweet potato and coconut gravy, and smoked tomato gravy, as well as a changing but reliably eccentric gravy of the day. To garnish further: bananas foster jam, smoked apple butter, chocolate banana butter, and many other condiments from the self-serve jam bar.

Read More »

A Meeting of the Barbecue Minds

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJuly 15, 2014

Last Thursday night, at Scott’s Bar-B-Que in Hemingway, South Carolina, two giants of Southern barbecue met for the first time. As the sun went down, John Lewis, the lanky head cook at La Barbecue in Austin, stepped around the pits where whole-hog veteran Rodney Scott smokes more than a dozen pigs each week. The Texas pit master peppered the South Carolina pit master with questions: How much space do you keep between the hogs and the coals? How do you keep the temperature steady? Lewis helped Scott move a piece of furniture. They walked to the picnic tables across the street, sat down, and ate together.

Read More »

Tennessee Whiskey Jam

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJuly 7, 2014

The pairing of whiskey and country ham is one of the most timeless and reliably delicious in all of Southern cuisine. And at the 404 Kitchen in Nashville, Tennessee, chef Matt Bolus has devised a fresh way to bring the two staples together. He serves shaved country ham with biscuits, red-eye gravy, and dollops of whiskey jam, a spiced fruit butter with a base of raisins, apple cider, and corn liquor. It’s strong stuff, and pairs nicely with cured meats of all sorts, as well as cheese and, hell, just about anything else you might enjoy with a glass of brown water.

Read More »

Made in the South Awards Winner Update

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 30, 2014

When Bittermilk nabbed the top spot in the drinks category of our 2013 Made in the South Awards last year, the Charleston, South Carolina, line of craft cocktail mixers consisted of three products: a smoked-honey whiskey sour mix, a hopped and elderflower-perfumed Tom Collins mix, and an outstanding burnt-sugar Old Fashioned mix, all carefully positioned at the intersection of bitter, sweet, and sour. Demand for the mixers soared, and founders Joe and MariElena Raya, buoyed by the company’s quick and early success, set to work on a fourth formulation. “Did the Made in the South Awards change our business? It launched our business, basically,” says Joe Raya, who also runs the Gin Joint, one of the Holy City’s best bars, with MariElena. “We were bottling by hand when we got into the magazine, and suddenly, I swear, I was working twenty-four hour stretches some days. But it was amazing, and really got us off the ground.” 

Read More »

Behold the Bisnut

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 26, 2014

If you’ve kept even a wandering eye on the culinary world over the past year, you’ve probably heard something about the cronut, the flaky croissant-doughnut hybrid that made a minor celebrity of New York City pastry chef Dominique Ansel in 2013. The cronut has inspired plenty of imitators, but none have hit quite as close to home for us here at Garden & Gun as the latest, from fast-food chain Carl’s Jr.

Read More »

Happening Now: Texas Tiki Week

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 24, 2014

If you’ve noticed a resurgence of fluorescent, umbrella-topped drinks in your favorite darkened haunts, you’re not alone. Tiki is back. “It’s a nice antidote to how precious cocktails became for a lot of people,” says Jessica Sanders, who runs the Austin, Texas, bar drink.well. “Bartenders got a little bored with themselves, and this whole idea that cocktails must be brown and bitter and stirred. Now, we’re taking all the knowledge and craft that we’ve learned in the past decade and applying it to something creative and fun.”

Read More »

Southern Classics: The Ark of Taste

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 22, 2014

This year’s Atlanta Food & Wine Festival offered plenty of opportunities to sample small-batch and heritage treats. But the very scarcest bites of the weekend came out at a couple of discussions hosted by chef Linton Hopkins, of Holeman & Finch and Restaurant Eugene, about Slow Food and the organization’s Ark of Taste.

Read More »

Dean Fearing's Barbecue Beans

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 18, 2014

Last week, we shared chef Dean Fearing's recipe for chili, which appears in his new cookbook, The Texas Food Bible. Today, we're back for a second helping. Any patriotic Texan knows that beans don't belong in chili, but they sure do taste good alongside burgers, hot dogs, and potato salad. Here's Fearing's take on baked beans. The recipe might be a little bit lengthier than most, but it really isn't much harder to pull off—and it's worth the extra effort, anyway.

Read More »

Crispy Okra Fries

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 17, 2014

Meherwan Irani learned to cook from his mother. And while he is hardly unique in that respect, he must be one of the few chefs in the country who asked his mother to train the kitchen staff, too. The menu at Chai Pani, a color-splashed bastion of citrus and spice in Asheville, North Carolina, is rooted in the flavors of the chef’s childhood in northern India, and for good reason. Irani spent more than a decade in sales and marketing before he opened his restaurant five years ago. While hardly a novice, his resume consists of hours logged in his own kitchen and under his mother’s tutelage, not in restaurants or culinary schools.

Read More »

Southern Classic: Texas Chili

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 9, 2014

Yes, Dean Fearing cooks in cowboy boots. He isn’t just posturing, either. Fearing is the original cowboy in chef’s whites, with three decades under his belt at some of the Lone Star State’s finest establishments, including Dallas favorites the Mansion on Turtle Creek and Fearing’s. And he has been loyal to the foods of his home state all these years, dishing enchiladas and smoked brisket long before upscale spots across the country went regional.

Read More »

Pages

Subscribe to Jed Portman