Jed Portman

A Perfect Southern Match: Tomatoes & Biscuits

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJuly 24, 2015

Leave it to Willie Foster of Biscuit King’s Fun Barn in Fairhope, Alabama, to make the tomato sandwich on our cover into a why-didn’t-we-think-of-that breakfast treat. The self-taught baker’s signature Ugly Biscuit is an all-in-one meal of sausage, bacon, egg, and cheese tucked into a football-shaped lump of dough that appeared in our 2014 roundup of the best breakfast joints in the South. But while visiting family in the Holy City earlier this week, he treated the Garden & Gun staff to an off-menu special.

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An Asheville Chef's Southern Lox

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJuly 10, 2015

Steven Goff loves lox on a bagel with cream cheese. But like many other chefs, he is also an advocate for locally farmed and foraged ingredients, and salmon don’t swim anywhere near Asheville, North Carolina, where Goff has lived and worked for more than a decade, most recently at the acclaimed King James Public House. “I don’t like to use ingredients from too far away, and salmon are incredibly far away,” he says. “What we do have here is great trout.” Goff cures fillets in a mixture of North Carolina sweet potato vodka, dill, citrus, and spices, and serves the resulting lox over bagels and salads. Made with freshly caught fish, it’s delicious enough to make a person forget salmon lox altogether.

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Southern Milkshakes—With A Grown-Up Kick

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 29, 2015

Andrew Ullom handles dessert for half a dozen of the best restaurants in Raleigh, North Carolina, but he doesn’t overthink a milkshake. “When you have three or four ingredients that taste good by themselves, nine out of ten times they’re going to taste good together,” says the executive pastry chef for Poole’s Diner, Beasley’s Chicken + Honey, and several other spots owned and operated by chef Ashley Christensen, who has been one of the driving forces behind the city's dining scene for the past decade.

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Southern Classic: Tomato Pudding

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 17, 2015

It is an incredibly simple dish, even for the down-to-earth likes of Robert Stehling.

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Father's Day, Texas-Style

By Jed PortmanBelow the LineJune 12, 2015

As a hard-working chef with a four-year-old daughter, Jesse Griffiths has yet to truly live it up on Father’s Day, but he has ideas for the holidays to come. “They’ll probably involve pancakes, and fishing,” he says. “It’ll be fun.” In the meantime, the chef at Dai Due, in Austin, Texas, has volunteered to help the rest of us make our plans. Griffiths is a serious outdoorsman who serves venison ceviche and slow-cooked wild boar at his restaurant, and teaches classes in hunting and fishing on the side. He drew upon his experiences both in hunt camp and the kitchen to brainstorm gifts for your own outdoorsy, cast-iron-loving dad. He has field-tested everything on the list below, from a potentially lifesaving pair of boots to a couple of cookbooks that might inspire your old man to fire up the grill.

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A Bucket-List Barbecue Joint Goes Up in Flames

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 11, 2015

Last week, pit master Bryan Furman of B’s Cracklin’ Barbeque in Savannah, Georgia, served crowds larger and hungrier than any he had ever seen before. Not only was he profiled as one of five pit masters serving real-deal barbecue in the June/July issue of Garden & Gun, and included on our Barbecue Bucket List, but Southern Living had also named his joint one of the best in the region, and local media had followed suit. The sudden attention amazed the former welder, who traded his torch for tongs less than a year ago.

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Catching Up with the Lee Brothers

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 5, 2015

2015 has been a busy year for Matt and Ted Lee. The Charleston, South Carolina–raised brothers, cookbook authors, and mail-order entrepreneurs have kept a pretty low profile since they published The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen to critical acclaim two years ago. But in the next few weeks, they will debut a television series and host a two-night stage show with chef Edward Lee (no relation) of 610 Magnolia and MilkWood restaurants in Louisville. We sat down with the brothers between flights to learn a little bit more about Southern Uncovered, which premieres on June 14 on the Ovation Network, and “The Boiled Peanut Hour,” coming to the Actors Theatre of Louisville on June 19-20.

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A Last Supper for Seven Sows

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJune 3, 2015

“This is a celebration, not a funeral,” says Mike Moore, who is on vacation with a group of his former employees at a rented beach house outside of Charleston, South Carolina, instead of on the line at Seven Sows, his recently shuttered Asheville restaurant. For the past two years, as the streets around the restaurant filled with new spots to eat and drink, it was a comfortable place to pick over a plate of buttermilk hush puppies or a tray of raw oysters. But the chef has been busy with other projects, and he was ready to sell when a friend asked if he would.

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Discover North Carolina Barbecue

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 28, 2015

It’s safe to say that diners today know more about barbecue than any previous generation. Once, we ate whatever was nearby. Now, we drive hundreds of miles to visit the likes of Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, Texas, and Scott’s Bar-B-Q in Hemingway, South Carolina. But amid the big names are hundreds of joints that have yet to earn national recognition. Sometimes for good reason, and sometimes only for lack of traffic or promotional funds. Those hole-in-the-wall spots have a friend in Amanda Fisher, who traveled across North Carolina with partner and fellow barbecue enthusiast Paul Bright to find the 434 joints on the Great NC BBQ Map, a guide to regional legends and hidden secrets alike.

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Lessons in Biscuit-Making from a Seasoned Baker

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 18, 2015

For the past few years, I’ve subscribed to a straightforward biscuit-making method, learned from a pastry chef friend. (Sorry, Grandma!) First, I put a stick of butter in the coldest corner of the freezer. When I wake up the next morning, I grate that frozen butter into a bowl of White Lily self-rising flour, and then add enough buttermilk to turn the dry mix into a soft but foldable dough, handling all ingredients delicately to keep the butter cold and the biscuits flaky.

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