Jed Portman

Gravy Podcast: The Jemima Code

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 29, 2015

After Toni Tipton-Martin took a job writing about food and cookbooks at the Los Angeles Times, she realized that none of the books in her office were written by black cooks. Then, a chance encounter with a decades-old volume introduced her to a whole genre of little-known recipe books that bring to life generations of women dismissed in later histories as the help. “In the late eighteenth century, you’re able to see that they possessed a technical and organizational, managerial-type skill set that no one attributes to slaves,” she says.

Read More »

Southern Pantry: Lindera Farms Vinegars

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 28, 2015

Dine at Per Se, one of the best-known restaurants in New York City, and you could taste a splash of the Old Dominion on your plate. That same Lindera Farms vinegar might grace dishes at any number of restaurants below the Mason-Dixon line: Minibar in Washington, D.C., Husk in Charleston, or Rhubarb in Asheville, to list just a few prominent examples.

Read More »

5 Unusual Barbecue Spots

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 16, 2015

In many circles, the mark of a great pit master is his—or her—ability to stick to tradition. For good reason, too. It’s hard to improve on hog cooked over real wood and dressed with a simple sauce. Across the South, though, are joints that dish up something different from the barbecue most of us know and love. Some of them are rogue defenders of their own styles, and others hold down distinctive but long-established corners of the barbecue world. They’re all worthy destinations for adventure-seeking lovers of smoked meats.

Read More »

Gravy Podcast: Inside Fred's Lounge

By Jed PortmanSouthern SoundsJanuary 5, 2015

This week, the Southern Foodways Alliance's Gravy comes from the neon-lit confines of Fred’s Lounge, in Mamou, Louisiana. On Saturday morning, when most of the country is sitting down to breakfast or sleeping off the night before, the bartenders at Fred’s are pouring beer and slicing boudin for a raucous crowd of dancers and musicians—locals and tourists alike. In fact, the sixty-eight-year-old bar is only open on Saturday mornings, an eccentric policy that has helped cement its status as one of the most legendary dives in Cajun country. The music starts at 9 a.m., but the doors are open before 8. Two-step your way through the front door with Eve Troeh’s report from the dance floor.

Read More »

The Year in Restaurants: The Thunderbird

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 2, 2015

To wrap up 2014, we’re profiling five of the South’s most exciting new restaurants—one per day. Today, we check in with one of Asheville, North Carolina’s most prolific chefs.

Read More »

The Year in Restaurants: Dai Due

By Jed PortmanGood EatsJanuary 1, 2015

To wrap up 2014, we are profiling five of the South’s most exciting new restaurants—one per day. Today, we head to Texas.

Read More »

The Year in Restaurants: The Shack

By Jed PortmanGood EatsDecember 31, 2014

To wrap up 2014, we’re profiling five of the South’s most exciting new restaurants—one per day. Today, we head to small-town Virginia to meet a chef earning national praise.

Read More »

The Year in Restaurants: MoPho

By Jed PortmanGood EatsDecember 30, 2014

To wrap up 2014, we are profiling five of the South’s most exciting new restaurants—one per day. Today, we head to New Orleans.

Read More »

The Year in Restaurants: Better Half

By Jed PortmanGood EatsDecember 29, 2014

To wrap up 2014, we are profiling five of the South’s most exciting new restaurants—one per day. Today, we head to Atlanta:

Read More »

Make this Now: Bayou Horchata

By Jed PortmanGood EatsDecember 23, 2014

Tis the season for milky refreshments of all sorts, from creamy eggnog to clarified milk punch. For Bobby Heugel, co-owner of the bar the Pastry War in Houston, it’s horchata season. Well, it’s always horchata season. Heugel deploys the pearlescent rice milk liberally at the Pastry War, a modern mezcaleria where aguas frescas and sal de gusano meet small-batch spirits on a menu of high-concept Texas Mexican cocktails.

Read More »

Pages

Subscribe to Jed Portman